I think their message is less than convincing considering the backdrop they decided to hang it on.

RQD is not a political blog, so I’m not posting this for that purpose.  However, I could not resist sharing this image, as it is representative of the “pretend you don’t see it” cultural mindset that is so typical in Thailand.

I’ve decided to leave comments open on this one, but please be VERY careful what you say.  RQD is not a platform for political comment and it is not taking sides in this current heated climate.

I was eating with a couple of the boys the other day.  In typical Thai style we got several dishes and shared them.  It is also quite common for everyone to use their own eating utensils, usually the spoon, to serve themselves, both at home and in a restaurant.

I’ve mentioned before that it is very important to make sure no rice is stuck to the utensil while serving yourself from a shared dish.  Now here’s another rule of etiquette to add to the list.  Two people should never serve themselves, at the same time, from the same dish.  But there’s more.

Princess and I reached for another serving from the same dish.  While doing so, the backs of our spoons touched.  Princess said, “Someone will come to visit today.”  The other boy then giggled.  Princess asked me if I knew about that and I asked him, “About what?”  He explained that when the back of two spoons touch it means someone will come to visit that day.  He further explained that it makes no difference when they collide, so if two people are reaching for separate dishes and happen to connect it would mean the same thing.

Then he politely revealed it is also bad manners for two people to serve themselves from the same dish at the same time.  Who knew?

Some of these things are regionally specific, but in this case I took note that the other boy was familiar with what had been discussed, and agreed.  Princess is from Isan and the other boy comes from the south.

Later that day the man that collects the rent stopped by for this month’s payment.

In this post I’ll try and offer a superficial explanation for the use of water and powder during the Songkran festival.  Detailed explanations of the festival’s origins can easily be found with a few google searches, but my focus is on how the tradition evolved to what we see today.  This is based partly on some Internet research, combined with what I’ve gotten from the boys.

Songkran apparently originates in northern Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, and over time has found its way into other regions of Thailand.  I mention this, because there are some variations on how Songkran is celebrated from one region to the other.  There are also differences in how things are done in rural areas compared to the big cities.  Like many things in Thailand, the explanation you get for something is often influenced by the regional practices of the individual providing the answer.  In addition, the younger generations my not have a complete understanding of the more traditional roots of some things.  Thus, it can be difficult to get one simple answer for something like why is powder used. Factor in limited English skills and the quest for solid answers can be a bit challenging, to say the least.

WATER

The craziness of dumping water on each other originates from a formal ceremony, which still exists today, that pays respect to elders.  I’ll skip over the details, but the water part is limited to poring a small cup of scented water on an elder’s hands.  Some boys tell me it’s also pored on feet.   This later evolved into the tradition of poring a small cup of water on the shoulders of friends and passers by, which is still practiced today, even in Bangkok.

At some point it was decided that after the formal ceremony with elders the younger boys and girls could have fun splashing each other with water.  This is significant, because it was the only time of the year opposite sexes were allowed to mix and touch each other without fear of retribution.  More about this when we get to the origins of smearing powder on each other.

Today, boys will tell you that the splashing of water is symbolic of cleansing each other, so everyone will be fresh for the New Year.  If you think the water fights are crazy in Thailand, try Cambodia where it’s common practice to throw plastic bags of water at moving vehicles, motorcycles included!

POWDER

While it has evolved somewhat, this is one of the oldest Songkran traditions. Originally the white paste was a sign of protection and promised to ward off evil. The person with the paste was often older and he or she applied it to various parts of the face, neck and torso of others. One was expected to leave this paste on until it washes off.  At least in some regions, dry powder was also used.  One boy told me the traditional dry powder is very expensive and impractical for the celebrations we see today.  Even so, it is still common to have dry baby powder placed on you cheeks and/or forehead, even a few days before the actual festival begins.  I’ve had it done to me by the check out clerk at the local grocery store.

I asked three boys about the use of powder, all in the same room at the same time, and each from a different region of Thailand - Central, Isan and South.  Two had moderate English skills and one was quite proficient.  The first answer I got was the always popular, “for good luck.”  This was followed by, “for fun.”  But after considerable digging I learned something very interesting.

Earlier I mentioned that in the past youth were allowed to have water fights, and this was the only time of the year opposite sexes were permitted to mix and touch each other so liberally.  Well, the boys told me this custom of smearing powder paste on a stranger’s cheeks is a way to touch someone you find attractive, without fear of retribution.  While this is generally considered something the opposite sexes take advantage of, these three gay boys said the same holds true for them touching other boys.  From what I gather, this liberty is typically limited to the touching of another individual’s cheeks and possibly forehead.  The more aggressive covering of an individual with powder is largely restricted to friends or a stranger that has gotten particularly aggressive in his or her festive spirit.  In other words, it’s just for fun.

CONDUCT

I’m sure everyone has there own experiences, but I’ve found as long as you don’t engage, and are not in a location where a large group is having a water fight, the participants will usually leave a westerner, or older Thai, alone as he or she passes by.  In all the years I’ve lived here not once has anyone gotten me wet at the neighborhood street-side gatherings of a few Thais with hose and tub of water.  The only time I’ve ever gotten wet was from a couple of children that politely pored a small cup of water on my shoulder and wished me a happy new year.

I’m not suggesting one is totally immune from the occasional soaking, but as a general rule the stories you hear about having to stay indoors for three days are grossly exaggerated.  At least that’s been my experience in BKK.  Pattaya may very well be a different story.  Regardless, I don’t advise venturing out without cell phone, wallet and other valuables safely sealed in plastic bags.

Songkran was celebrated last 13, 14 and 15. Each day/night they have a big street party on Silom, which is concentrated under the Sala Daeng BTS station and eventually stretches out to the intersections at each end of the street.

The party starts around one in the afternoon and ends at about one in the morning.  Participants spill in slowly at first, so during daylight hours the street is dominated by vehicles, many of which are trucks with tubs of water that passengers use to splash on those they pass.

By around 5 PM the crowd of squirt gun toting people has grown to the point its standing room only from sidewalk to sidewalk, and more keep poring in.  If you are on the street at this time there is no avoiding the water and powder that’s turned into a clay-like paste.

Those arriving by BTS, once the party is in full swing, will immediately notice the roar of the crowd.  It’s actually a very dull roar at train level, but by the time you have exited the gate it’s quite loud and forbidding.  Gate level is also filled with drenched and powdered participants that have come up for a rest or are getting ready to leave.  Then you look over the edge to see what is going on at street level and it’s a sea of people, all tossing water and smearing wet powder on each other.

I was with a friend the first night. He looked over the BTS railing and said, “There’s nothing else like it in the world!”  We then made our way to Soi Twilight for the one and only evening of it I can stand.  There were very few farang in the soi that night, and it was much more subdued than in years past.  I also noticed a bit of tension among the boys and one farang who became hostile any time someone got him wet.  He was eventually escorted out of the soi.

The next day I came back to the BTS station and used the elevated walkway that connects with the MRT as a platform to photograph the party below.  It is an ideal vantage point, particularly for those wanting to avoid getting themselves and their cameras wet.  The photos were taken between 2 and 4 in the afternoon, and can be viewed at my Facebook account.  The photos are in chronological order, so you can get an idea how things look as the day progresses.

The other day I was heading up river on a water taxi.  One of the stops it made also happens to be the location of a ferry boat crossing.  As we were pulling out I noticed about 10 boys using the ferry as a platform to swim in the river.

When the ferry departed most of the boys road along, presumably to swim again on the other side.  One of the younger guys dropped into the water and hung on to a tire for the ride over.

It was a fun sight to witness, but I couldn’t help thinking that between safety regulations and the risk of liability this would never happen back home.

At 12 noon today the 694-passenger Azamara Quest will dock in Bangkok for a 24 hour stop over before moving on to Ko Samui.  This is the second time an Atlantis Gay cruise ship has visited Bangkok, the first being one year ago.

I was here for that event and it was quite a sight to see.  Over 600 queens, I mean passengers, hit Silom and nobody knew they were coming.  The bars in Soi Twilight filled to capacity.  Large groups got turned away at the sex shows, because there wasn’t an empty seat in the house.

Of course, the clubs were very happy to get all this unexpected business, but no one knew exactly why it happened.  This year all the clubs got a few days advanced notice, so they should be better prepared for the deluge that will hit this evening.

Most of the passengers have never been to Bangkok before, let alone experienced the Silom Gay scene, so it’s a lot of fun to watch, and I’ve already got my seat reserved.

I just wanted to call your attention to a new blog I’ve added a link to in the side bar.  Bao Bao’s Blog is by a RQD reader.  In the past I’ve referenced some of his writings on one of the forums.  Now he’s decided to share even more, including a great story about his home made sex DVD cards.  He gave me one of the cards during a recent visit to BKK, and told the story you can now read on his blog.   A few days later I flashed the card at Princess and he busted out laughing.