Free Speech Coalition

Getting Around Town

October 17th, 2007

Read this with the understanding that most of my experience is with transportation in Bangkok, and may not apply in other cities.  There are plenty of tourism sites out there that cover transportation in Thailand.  My goal with this document is mostly to share with you those things you might not find on the sugar coated tourist information sites.

Getting Around Town

Driving a car in Bangkok is probably not an option.  Even if you are comfortable driving on the opposite side of the road, traffic here is insane.  The best way to get around Bangkok is to make use of the various taxi services and their exceptional public transportation system.

TAXIES

In Bangkok, there are three options for taxies; car, tuk tuk, and motorcycle. It is the luck of the draw getting a driver that speaks any English, so traveling by taxi can be a bit challenging.  Unless you have someone with you that speaks Thai, sticking with the metered taxies, and only going to well known locations is the best way to use taxies.  Like all countries, the possibility of tourists being taken advantage of is high.  However, my impression is you have a better chance of being ripped off in New York City than in Bangkok.

Assuming you have a cell phone, a good way to get around by taxi is to call someone you know that speaks Thai.  Hand your phone to the driver and have that person explain to the driver where you want to go.

With all taxies, try to have several 20’s and 10’s, as the drivers do not carry a lot of small change.  In a pinch, the driver will try and make change from a street vendor, assuming one is near by.

Car Taxi

Car Taxi

A traditional car taxi, usually a Toyota Corolla, is the most expensive and only practical taxi option for long distances, such as across town.  Make sure you get one with a meter, or there is no telling how much your fare will be.  Of the three taxi options, cars are the most comfortable ride and the only choice if you want air conditioning. Car taxies are only available in Bangkok.  You can get them in other major cities, strictly for commutes to and from Bangkok.

If it rains, car taxis will be difficult to find, and travel times will double.

Tuk Tuk

Tuk Tuk

The tuk tuk, carries two full sized passengers, and is best used for short trips.  The tuk tuk is nimble in traffic, making travel times a little quicker than a car taxi.  While they are very practical, I would not describe them as a comfortable ride.  If getting wet, wind blown, and exposed to vehicle exhaust are an issue, the tuk tuk is not your best choice.

They are not metered, so you need to know how much the trip should cost, and always make sure the driver agrees on the fare, before getting in. In my opinion, they are best used for a quick run back from the grocery.  It’s a distance you would normally walk, but with a bunch of shopping bags, the tuk tuk comes in handy.  This is the type of trip you take regularly, making it easy to nail down the fare.

In the heavy tourist areas, including shopping malls, you may be approached by an English speaking tuk tuk driver.  After a few questions, usually to try and determine you really are an ignorant tourist, he will offer to show you around town.  The odds are very high guys like this are not after your best interests…just your money.  Be polite, but don’t take him up on his offer.

Motorcycle Taxi

Motorcycle Taxi

The motorcycle is the cheapest and quickest mod of transportation.  They can zip through heavy traffic like a dull knife cutting butter.  The motorcycle taxies scare the hell out of me, but are popular with the locals, and seasoned Farangs.  The drivers wear an orange vest, so you can distinguish them from regular cyclists.  Like the tuk tuks, you need to know how much the fare should be.  Someone once rationalized that motorcycle taxi drivers have no more interest in getting killed than their paying passenger, so it’s a reasonably safe mode of transportation.  I have no doubt that’s true, but motorcycles still deliver the highest death rate of any mode of transportation in Thailand.  If you must use them, short hops, in good weather, on back streets is your safest bet.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

BTS Sky Train

There are three primary modes of public transportation in Bangkok; bus, Sky Train (BTS), and the recently completed Subway (MRT).

Buses

Bus

It is unlikely you will find the bus system useful or desirable in Bangkok, particularly if you are there for a short time.  The locals typically use buses, because they are the cheapest form of public transportation. Due to the heavy traffic in Bangkok, buses are slow.  They are noisy, uncomfortable, and often make sudden stops in busy traffic.  They are not air conditioned, so you are always taking in the exhaust from surrounding vehicles.  Some Farang that have lived in Thailand a long time have no problem using the bus system.  If you are new, I’d suggest not riding them, and try to avoid getting hit by one while crossing the street.

Songthaew

Songthaew - Baht Bus

A songthaew, also known in English as a baht bus, is a passenger vehicle adapted from a pick-up or a larger truck.  They usually function like small buses, in that they have defined routs.  They may also work more like a taxi in some cities, particularly late at night, when there aren’t a lot of commuters.  In many cities, the baht bus is your primary means of transportation.  I don’t have a lot of experience with the baht bus, but can tell you in tourist towns, guard your wallet and other valuables while riding one.

BTS Sky Train and MRT Subway Systems

I’m going to lump these two together, because they both operate the same way.  The only difference is their routs, and one is underground, while the other is above.  Both systems are very fast, because they don’t get tangled in the heavy street traffic taxies and buses are subject to.

BTS Sky Train

The Sky Train is an above ground rail system that will quickly, and cheaply, take you close to most places of interest in Bangkok.  For this reason, it’s a good idea to pick a hotel, or apartment that is within walking distance of the BTS.  You can buy a one time pass from coin operated machines, or get a long-term pre-paid pass. Be careful with the pre-paid passes.  Most are structured for heavy use, such as daily commuters, and include discounts for each ride.  If you are in Bangkok for a short time, don’t get one.  If you are planning to live in Bangkok, get to know your usage before buying one.  Instead, get the pre-paid card that has no discounts.

BTS Station

The MRT takes a route that I’ve never needed to use.  I’ve only ridden on it once, but can tell you its no different than the BTS, other than it runs under ground.  The MRT does intersect with the BTS in a few places, so commuters can transfer.

MRT Interior of Train

Rather than going cross town in a taxi, I’ll usually take the BTS to a location near my destination.  Then hop in a taxi for the remainder of the trip.  This not only saves money and time, but it’s more likely the driver will know the place you want to go, because it’s in his most familiar territory.  Returning is easy, because all taxi drivers know the names and locations of the BTS and MRT stations…well most of them do.  They will certainly know the ones in their familiar territory.

Travel times aside, taxies are cheaper than the BTS or MRT, if two or more people are traveling together.  The difference in cost isn’t that much compared to the travel times you will frequently encounter in a taxi.  For cross town trips, what I, and many others, do is use the BTS/MRT during the day and Taxi in the evenings, after rush hour traffic has subsided….usually after 9pm.  In other words, go to the clubs on the BTS, and come home in a taxi.

That reminds me…the BTS/MRT stops running at midnight.

Cute Thai Boy
Photo Courtesy of Asia Boy

One final note…

I love riding the BTS, because a lot of Thai boys do, as well.  All the eye candy makes the commute that much more enjoyable and getting cruised is common place while riding the BTS.

Business Broker

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